WCXX

A cross between Masterchef and The Voice, The Taste's first episode, airing this Tuesday night, sees 25 professionals and amateur cooks compete to impress the three judges (Lawson, US chef Anthony Bourdain and "very French" chef Ludo Lefebvre) with just a single spoonful of food.

"It's all about the taste now," Lawson primly informs viewers. "It's not about presentation or reputation," chimes in her co-judge "bad boy" Bourdain.

But viewers – probably mercifully - can't taste caramelised tea-smoked duck breast on sprouts topped with pickled cherries. So, in reality, the show stands on the judges' charisma.

While Bourdain and Lefebvre posture and bicker, 54-year-old Lawson provides her customary sex appeal. There are endless shots of her heaving embonpoint under a figure-hugging blue dress, her bra strap coyly slipping from a shoulder, smoky eyes widening with delight and full, glossy lips opening to ingest spoonfuls.

There's also lashings of classic Lawson innuendo. "It would be satisfying almost to the point of sinful gratification to beat Tony and Ludo," she purrs. "Instantly seductive," she moans after a mouthful of ravioli, while a young male contestant is invited to join "Team Nigella" with a breathy: "I really want you".

As the only woman judge in a macho set up, Lawson's brings a vital feminine touch. With her fellow judges, she's a strict matron, briskly slapping down their spats. "I had to keep the boys away [from each other] … so they couldn't hit each other, but I'm used to that I come from a large family," she told an interviewer.

"She's nice and she's polite but there's an iron fist beneath the velvet glove," says Bourdain.

With the contestants, however, Lawson's all earth-mother. She hugs one who's crying, telling him: "You don't need to be afraid for responding emotionally, food is very emotional."

After another's mishap causes Lawson to spill sweetcorn down her cleavage, she reassures him. "You couldn't cope with the pressure, not everyone can." On the basis of The Taste, Lawson's coping abilities are more than fine.